fix: gate ssl_reject_handshake behind nginx 1.19.4

The shipped catch-all default site uses `ssl_reject_handshake`, which is unsupported on nginx older than 1.19.4 and causes nginx to fail to start on Debian Bullseye. The postinst now detects the installed nginx version and installs an HTTP-only variant of the catch-all on older systems.

docs/appendices/0.38.0-migration-guide.md

@@ -17,7 +17,7 @@
 
 - The path on disk to both the global `ENV` file and app `ENV` files have been moved. Users should reference environment variables via the provided plugin triggers rather than directly sourcing the ENV files. Existing ENV files are left untouched and will be removed on the subsequent Dokku install.
 - During a fresh apt install, the upstream nginx default vhost files (`/etc/nginx/sites-enabled/default`, `/etc/nginx/sites-available/default`, and `/etc/nginx/conf.d/default.conf`) are renamed to `${path}.dokku-disabled` (not deleted) to avoid a `duplicate default server for 0.0.0.0:80` error. Operators with local customizations can recover them by inspecting the `.dokku-disabled` siblings. Upgrade-in-place installs do not touch any existing nginx files.
-- Fresh apt installs now ship a catch-all default site at `/etc/nginx/conf.d/00-default-vhost.conf` that rejects requests with unknown Host headers using `ssl_reject_handshake on` (HTTPS) and `return 444` (HTTP). This replaces the manual workaround previously documented in the nginx docs. The behavior can be opted out at install time via the `dokku/install_default_site` debconf prompt. See the [Default site documentation](/docs/networking/proxies/nginx.md#default-site).
+- Fresh apt installs now ship a catch-all default site at `/etc/nginx/conf.d/00-default-vhost.conf` that rejects requests with unknown Host headers using `ssl_reject_handshake on` (HTTPS) and `return 444` (HTTP). This replaces the manual workaround previously documented in the nginx docs. The behavior can be opted out at install time via the `dokku/install_default_site` debconf prompt. On nginx older than 1.19.4 (e.g., Debian Bullseye's nginx 1.18.0), the postinst installs an HTTP-only variant of the catch-all that omits the SSL listener and `ssl_reject_handshake`, since that directive is unsupported on those versions. See the [Default site documentation](/docs/networking/proxies/nginx.md#default-site).
 - The `docker-local` scheduler now sends `SIGTERM` to old containers immediately after a successful deploy, rather than waiting `wait-to-retire` seconds before signaling. This matches Heroku's graceful-shutdown contract and lets applications begin draining in-flight work as soon as proxy traffic switches. The `wait-to-retire` grace period and `stop-timeout-seconds` hard-stop continue to apply as before. See the [zero downtime deploys documentation](/docs/deployment/zero-downtime-deploys.md#wait-to-retire) for more details.
 - The `docker-local` scheduler no longer queues an image for retirement when another running container of the same app still uses it. This fixes the case where a `ps:rebuild` against an image-based deploy (`git:from-image`) produced an identical-SHA image and the `dokku-retire` cron timer would log `Image ... has running containers, skipping rm` on every run. Stuck entries from prior versions are pruned automatically on the next `ps:retire` run.
 - All `:report` subcommands now accept the `--global` flag, which scopes the report to globally-configured properties. The flag composes with `--format json`, so a JSON report of global properties can be obtained via, for example, `dokku scheduler:report --global --format json`. Previously, combining `--global` with `--format json` was rejected with an "info flag" error, and `--global` on its own was treated as an unknown flag.
@@ -26,7 +26,9 @@
 
 ### TLS handshake behavior change
 
-With the new catch-all installed, an HTTPS request to a hostname that matches a configured dokku app but where the app has no TLS certificate configured will have its TLS handshake rejected by the catch-all (via `ssl_reject_handshake on`). Previously, nginx fell through to the lexicographically first port-443 server block and presented that block's certificate, producing a cert-mismatch error on the client. The new behavior is a correctness improvement, but operators who deliberately relied on the old fall-through certificate (for monitoring probes, for example) need to either configure a certificate for the target app or remove the catch-all on that host. Existing apps that already have certificates configured are unaffected: nginx selects the right server block via SNI before TLS completion, so the catch-all is never consulted for legitimate requests.
+With the new catch-all installed on nginx 1.19.4+, an HTTPS request to a hostname that matches a configured dokku app but where the app has no TLS certificate configured will have its TLS handshake rejected by the catch-all (via `ssl_reject_handshake on`). Previously, nginx fell through to the lexicographically first port-443 server block and presented that block's certificate, producing a cert-mismatch error on the client. The new behavior is a correctness improvement, but operators who deliberately relied on the old fall-through certificate (for monitoring probes, for example) need to either configure a certificate for the target app or remove the catch-all on that host. Existing apps that already have certificates configured are unaffected: nginx selects the right server block via SNI before TLS completion, so the catch-all is never consulted for legitimate requests.
+
+This change does not apply to nginx older than 1.19.4 (e.g., Debian Bullseye's nginx 1.18.0), where the catch-all is installed as an HTTP-only variant. On those systems, HTTPS handshakes to unknown hosts continue to fall through to the first port-443 server block as before.
 
 ### Environment variables migrated to plugin properties